Playing the fool; A look at wine scams and frauds - plus some real-deal picks

Personally, I love a good April Fool's prank. Unless it's played on

me. Unfortunately, wine lovers have been pranked by unscrupulous

wineries and fraudsters for decades.

The scandals have occurred across the world, from the addition of

diethylene glycol - a key ingredient in antifreeze - to Austrian wine

in 1985 to the use of unapproved grapes in regions such as Italy's

Brunello di Montalcino.

Then there are the secondary market frauds, where fake versions of

prized bottles are manufactured. Perhaps the most notorious con man

was Rudy Kurniawan, who was convicted of making and selling

fraudulent versions of rare, coveted wines. He really was an artisan

at what he did. There's a terrific documentary about him called Sour

Grapes that is definitely worth checking out.

Canada has not escaped the scourge of fraud, with the country's most

famous vinous export - icewine - copied in foreign markets. Bottles

are created and labels are made to look like authentic icewine, but

the product is often not remotely similar. The problem is

particularly bad in Asia, where there is a strong thirst for the

intensely sweet, and expensive, elixir.

Wineries and wine regions have taken steps to limit fraud by creating

bottle tracking numbers and authentication labels. In the grand

scheme of things, though, the odds of buying a fake wine are very

rare, especially with lower-priced everyday wines.

I can confirm that none of these wines tasted fake. They all showed

authentic attributes. Enjoy.

Red Knot by Shingleback 2020 Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia

Shingleback winery was launched in McLaren Vale, just south of

Adelaide, Australia, 25 years ago. Kym and John Davey launched the

winery on land farmed by the grandfather. They now manage 120

hectares, primarily planted with shiraz and cabernet sauvignon.

Red Knot is a line of wines meant for early consumption, with a focus

on bright fruit flavours. This perky 2020 shiraz is medium ruby in

colour, with flavours of plum, blackberry, wild strawberry,

blackcurrant, leather, vanilla and white pepper. It boasts ripe

tannins and elevated acidity, keeping it lively on the palate.

Price: About $20. Look for it at Ace Liquor Discounter in Altadore,

Bow Trail Liquor, Co-op Wines Spirits Beer, Crowfoot Wine and

Spirits, D.J. Liquor, Harvest Liquor, Highlander Wine and Spirits,

Liquor Depot at Brentwood, Liquor Palace, Metro Liquor, New Discovery

Fine Wines and Spirits, Oak and Vine in Inglewood, Willow Park Wines

& Spirits and Wine and Beyond at Sage Hill.

Drink: Now. Enjoy it with grilled sausage, a meaty pizza or wild

game. Screw cap; 14 per cent alc./vol.

D'Arenberg 2022 The Hermit Crab Viognier-Marsanne McLaren Vale,

Australia Here's another great medium-full-bodied wine from McLaren

Vale. But it's white. This was the first blend of viognier (66 per

cent) and marsanne (34 per cent) to be produced in the wine region.

The name Hermit Crab alludes to the crustacean that lives on the

nearby coast. It is also a nod to Hermitage, the region in France's

northern Rhone Valley where some of the world's best Marsanne-based

wines are produced. Launched in 1912, d'Arenberg remains a family-

owned winery. It boasts an eye-catching tasting room that looks a lot

like a Rubik's Cube. The wine, certified organic and sustainable, is

exuberant, with lively apricot, honeydew, pear, white blossom and

almond flavours. It disappeared quickly in our house. Price: About

$22. Look for it at Co-op Wines Spirits Beer, Craft Cellars, Market

Wines and The Cellar.

Drink: In the next five years. Try it with Vietnamese dishes, roast

pork or pasta primavera. Screw cap; 14 per cent alc./vol.

Erath 2020 Pinot Noir Oregon, United States Erath is one of the

pioneering wineries in Oregon, launched in 1967 by Dick Erath and

former business partner Cal Knudsen.

Erath thought pinot noir could do well in Oregon, and boy was he

right.

The state, and particularly the Willamette Valley, west of Portland,

is now viewed as one of the world's great pinot regions. Erath

eventually sold the Dundee Hill winery and most of its vineyards to

Washington State's Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in 2006. While the

ownership changed, the winemaking has been led by Gary Horner since

2003.

The grapes for this bottle come from vineyards throughout the state.

Medium bodied, with moderate tannins and acid, this dry wine boasts

floral, cherry, strawberry and raspberry flavours, with notes of cola

and pomegranate.

Price: About $30. It has been sold at Co-op Wines Spirits Beer,

Highlander Wine and Spirits, Willow Park Wines & Spirits, Wine and

Beyond and Zyn the Wine Market.

Drink: Now. Pair it with duck with a cherry sauce, grilled pork chops

or spaghetti and meatballs. Screw cap; 13 per cent alc./vol.

Chronos 2020 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Chronos is part of the TIME Family of Wines, the winery launched by

Canadian wine icon Harry McWatters. The winery was purchased by Ron

and Shelley Mayert in 2020 after the unexpected death of McWatters in

2019.

It's been business as usual at the winery, with its flagship location

in the heart of Penticton and a satellite winery at the District Wine

Village, located between Okanagan Falls and Oliver.

Christa-Lee McWatters and Darrien McWatters, both children of Harry

McWatters, remain in management roles at the winery, which produces

wines under the Chronos, Evolve Cellars and McWatters Collection

labels. The winery also launched the OROLO Restaurant and Cocktail

Bar last month in Penticton.

This is a ripe cabernet franc from the outstanding 2020 vintage, with

loads of dark fruit aromas and flavours. It's balanced and dry with a

long finish. Price: About $35. Look for it at Urban Cellars.

Drink: In the next three or four years. Try it with a grilled steak,

beef brisket or an aged cheddar. Screw cap; 13.4 per cent alc./vol.

Contact Darren Oleksyn at dm.oleksyn@gmail.com or follow him on

Twitter or Instagram. Looking for a specific wine? Because wine

inventories are always in flux, it's a good idea to call a store to

confirm they have it. A search on Liquorconnect. com can give you an

idea of stores that have carried the wines.